Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 – Day 2

Living in a world of all things textile, the sustainable fashion & Indian textiles day is the most anticipated day at Lakmé Fashion Week. The designers showcased a different perspective towards handlooms and Indian weaves as they celebrated fashion with home grown textiles as their primary concept.

The show opened with a black and red Assamese Mekhla Chador at Aagor by ANTS Craft, an NGO that empowers women of the Bodo tribe by giving them creative support. Yards of fabulous woven textiles were turned into stunning garments for the ramp. Making a show stopping entry was Bollywood star Sara Jane Dias in a slashed multicoloured skirt with a black blouse.

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Making a beautiful debut at the Lakme Fashion Week 2016 is Pranami Kalita’s label ‘Pariah by Pranami’ which was a visual treat on the catwalk. Bringing the beauty of Assam to centre stage, she worked wonders with Muga, Eri and Pat silk, all indigenous silks renowned in Assam. She gave a contemporary twist to the traditional Indian handloom by including weaved-in traditional Assamese motifs on crop tops, culottes, gowns and more. The models took to the ramp in beautiful capes, one-shoulder gowns, and off-the-shoulder dresses among others.

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Priyanka Ella Lorena Lama presented an interesting collection consisting of  invigorating lines and shapes that were hard to decipher. Her label P.E.L.L.A. showcased hand woven pure Eri silk, Jamdani, Cashmere and Pashmina all ideal for the coming season.

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Padmaja‘s collection, called the ‘Loom of my Mind’ brought the beauty of slow sustainable fashion to centre stage. The collection showcased the magic of handlooms that revealed the Maheshwar weavers’ expertise with specially woven fabrics that were highlighted with intricate detail and accuracy. The ensembles consisted of scarves in earthy colours along with fluid shapes that lent an element of ease to the collection.

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“Working Hours” from the label ‘The Runaway Bicycle’ by Preeti Verma pedalled fashionably as a debut at Lakme Fashion Week. The collection was youthful, relaxed, and portrayed a sense of freedom in fashion as it was inspired by different professions of the era gone by. The collection showcased the feminine-androgyny trend which was fresh, wholesome and colourful in Khadi and organic fabrics.

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The aesthetics of designers JasonAnshu for their label ‘The Small Shop’ had a vibrant painterly, whimsical, languid feel with sustainability being the highlight of the garments. Their collection of 12 ensembles called ‘Planet Love’ was a limited edition line that portrayed a fine balance between unique hand work and natural fabrics.

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The burst of colours and prints in Mayank Mansingh Kaul & Monisha Ahmed’s collections provided a much-needed relief from the sea of blacks and greys. Busy prints, sexy chiffons and tailored pieces took the runway by storm.

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Kallol Datta’s collection was filled with his trademark baggy silhouettes, velvet, polka dots and midnight blues. The designer’s creativity is so intense and innovative; it is a visual challenge to delve into his thinking process and figure out his extreme construction techniques and ideas.

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Alan Alexander Kaleekal’s collection, ‘Garçonne’ was a mix of sharp tailoring, conventional fits and interesting gender norms. This innovative but totally wearable women’s wear line consisted of elongated sleeves, raw-edges, delightful suits and separates for the anti-fit distressed theme.

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Pallavi Dhyani’s collection ‘Three’ was inspired by the beauty of imperfections in life. The collection consisted of samurai-style robes, blouse with pyjama-pants, colour blocked jumpsuit, pinstriped monochromatic jacket over a classic white kurta, an overcoat with crimson bandage wrapped around the waist, and a floor length loose fitted basic dress paired with a casual blazer layered on a calf length top teamed with pencil trousers. In terms of colour monochromatic colour-blocking was essential in the shades of  rose-gold, beige, caramel, monochrome and ruby red.

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Weaver’s Studio presented a collection of Indo-western silhouettes. The colour palette was very muted as a deep blue palette was juxtaposed with hints of red.

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Bina Rao for Creative Bee Foundation‘s collection titled Nuovo-eco-classic pays tribute to Indian crafts like block printing and hand painting. The women’s wear line consists of lots of florals and flares in warm hues of brown, red and ochre, giving it a bohemian theme. The ensembles include flared long skirts in raw silk in deep red and rust; overlap short blouse with embroidery and patchwork with Kalamkari motifs; dupattas woven in silk and painted with Kalamkari among other mesmerizing designs. The collection was semi formal and with minimal embellishments. Rao’s men’s collection included styles in classic brown and black in textured silks with block prints in natural dye.

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Winter festive is not complete without a little bit, or a lot, of bling! Hemant Agrawal‘s metallic & shimmery collection consisted of simple yet elegant shifts, dresses and saris. Without the use of printing or embroidery, the ‘heavy metal’ collection showcased a collection of ensemble created with zari or metallic yarn.

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Anavila is known for constructing simple and modern saris that not only look comfortable but have a classic touch to them. ‘The Sari In Us‘ by Anavila showcases how to nonchalantly pair the nine yards with sleeveless-cropped blazers and flimsy long coats. If power-dressing is all the rage, then this collection shows you how it’s done.

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Monaco Tourism presents Sanjay Garg’s label ‘Raw Mango‘, a metallic collection that consisted of lots of palazzos, well-tailored separates, and slip dresses in silk and long coats. A riot of colours appeared on the ramp as the ensembles glittered with motifs and weaves that thrilled fashion lovers.

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So that’s it for Day 2 of Lakmé Fashion Week 2016. I hope you guys enjoyed this post!

P.S. I was keen on doing future fashion week posts based on the trends, where I break down the trends from the entire day instead of writing collection reviews.
Let me know what you would like to read, in the comments below.

Until next time.
-XOXO Kreena

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 – Day 1

Day 1 of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 kicked off with a new generation of the fashion design industry. The Gen Next show consists of 6 talented designers who showcase their designs on this platform for the first time.  Abhishek Paatni presented his collection called ‘WarfareXStreetfare‘ under the label ‘Nought One‘ which is premium wear line of prét and bespoke clothing. The next designer, Anupreet Sidhu’s label ‘Sidhu Ji’ was inspired by Vincent Van Gogh’s painting ‘Starry Night over Rhone’. The collection was aimed at modern women who want to make a definite style statement. Diming Rubu’s collection ‘The Missing Piece’ for her label ‘Dming’ was aimed for the fashion conscious women in the age group 25-40 years.

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Gaurav Khanijo’s collection ‘Morpheus’ was inspired by the dragon fly. The collection consisted of vintage clothing and pleated herringbone wool pants which lent a contemporary twist to the otherwise traditional collection. Paridhi Jaipuria presented a sleek women’s wear line called ‘Bunai’. The collection featured Indian artisanship and the beautiful craft of hand weaving. She created a mélange of garments with a high level of craftsmanship that projected great urban work wear. Vaibhav Singh’s collection called ‘Hybrid’ was a line of sharply cut and tailored garments, which revealed minute detailing.

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Trapezoid’ by Schulen Fernandes for Wendell Rodricks, presented a unique collection for Indian women. The line was inspired by geometric cutting and was aimed at all levels of the female buyers. Pastel colors, sheer layers, trapezoidal geometric shapes, unconventional cuts, and metallic platforms are a few details we noticed in the collection.

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Karishma Shahani Khan’s label ‘Ka-Sha’ unveiled the ‘Navya’ collection inspired by aerial views of landscapes and by the geometry of organic natural objects. The collection featured her trademark layered, soft silhouettes with plenty of tassels and tie & dye patterns. The colour palette included primary and secondary shades like tangerine, indigo, mustard, berry, purple and red. The collection consisted of cropped jackets, an unusual spin on a sarees paired with blazers, and multi layered garments each topped with tasseled scarves.

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Myoho’ by Kiran and Meghna presented ‘Sandalwood’ a collection that resonated a romantic, nostalgic journey of the 1920’s fashion. Gathered skirts, lace hand-fans, ruffled and pleated edges, along with its’ vintage vibes set the 1920’s mood.

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Ujjawal Dubey’s ‘Antar-Agni’ label presented an all-black story with innovative construction techniques and simplicity. The essence of androgyny that was seen throughout the collection. The asymmetrical kurtas, draped baggy pants, deep necklines for men and geometrical separates for men and women created an understated but stylish collection.

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The Quirkbox label by Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev presented the first ever mix of motion imagery, fashion and image mapping fashion show, shown in India. Quirkbox’s collection, ‘Madness’ displayed four garments along with face mapping, motion graphics and projections. It had a clash of prints, colours and metal structures with relaxed silhouettes along with a live installation where art was projected onto the garments in a very unique presentation technique.

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Nimish Shah’s collection titled ‘Housewives of Alibaug’ consisted of silhouettes which included sharp, clean cut ones as well as flowy, romantic ones. The collection oozed a subtle, conservative sexuality with minimal, single coloured, bold looks and printed ones in sandy hues.

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Atsu Sekhose’s collection was inspired by the Naga shawls.  He converted the black and white weave of the shawls into a graphic element with contemporary silhouettes, plunging necklines, sheer panels, shimmery embroidery, fringes and tassels, and high slits.

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Manish Malhotra’s collection consisted of modern silhouettes for a stylish, young bridal entourage. Also seen, were the designer’s signature resham threadwork, clustered sequins and intricate hand embroidery on dramatic trails and off-shoulder capes, alongside floral motifs. There was a contemporary twist on traditional garments; jacket-saris; lehengas paired with sheer crop blouses and draped dupattas on anarkalis.

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-XOXO Kreena

 

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 – Day 0

The much awaited Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 kicked off to a grand show by Tarun Tahiliani along with Kangana Ranaut, as his showstopper. Tahiliani showcased his ready to wear collection inspired by sculptor Mrinalini Mukherjee’s life size hemp and cast bronze sculptures.
Here is the break down to this magnificent Winter Festive 2016 collection.

Designs – The collection consisted of organic motifs and abstract designs. Graphic textures and shading was the key to create a 3D feel on a digitally printed fabric, solely to give depth to the design and still keep the garment light and playful. Fringe was huge in his designs, from hemlines and sleeves to shoulders, tassels and fringes were seen on almost all of the pieces.
Garments – The collection consisted of kurtas, dhotis, kaftans, tunics, concept saris, shift dresses.
Silhouettes – Indian wear silhouettes with modern touches like cowls and capes.
Fabrics –  The collection was made of light, easy and breathable fabrics as the outfits cater to a no-nonsense style and comfort. The fabrics used were mostly jersey and textures in chanderi, soft net, Italian tulle, crepe georgette, micro pleated tulle and heavy crepe georgette.
Drapes – Ensembles using drapes such as cascades, cowl drapes and capes to showcase it’s elegance and fluidity.
Color palette – Celebrates earthy autumnal colors like cobalt blue, ravishing red, rust, deep olive, and charcoal
Textures – Tahiliani plays with textures in the form of woven textiles, embroidery, fringing, crochet, and prints that looked 3D, creating the illusion of texture.
Beauty – Experimented with the trendy glittery lips.

Enjoy this collage of my most adorned pieces from the collection!

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Until soon
-XOXO Kreena

 

How do we make Indian textiles cool + relevant for young India?

10006511_699652836763518_576597385_nvia. India Culture Lab facebook page

I attended the Friday Funda event which took place during the ‘textile day’ of Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. The topic of discussion- “How do we make Indian textiles cool + relevant for young India?” This special panel discussion was moderated by Parmesh Shahani, head of the Godrej India Culture Lab. The panellists included Dinesh Singh, Addl. Development Commissioner (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, actor Kalki Koechlin, Maithili Ahluwalia, founder of Bungalow 8, designer Payal Khandwala, a Small World CEO Sabine Heller, and hemp farmer Sanvar Oberoi.

Payal Khandwala’s forte, when it comes to fashion, revolves around the reinvention of a sari for the modern day woman.  According to her, changes in the texture and weaves of a fabric make a huge difference in what the finishing product looks like.  Her garments are handmade, which in hindsight makes sense for her costly clothes, but she insists that the feeling of a handmade product outperforms a sari made from a machine.  One question to keep in mind, and something that is worth thinking about is how online shopping can either grow or inhibit the sale of textile products, using Payal’s logic of feel and texture? It almost seems as though online shopping would hinder the growth of quality products, especially something as intricate as a sari.

Dinesh Singh, a Addl. Development Commissioner, stated that people want natural fibres, no pollutant, unique design, and fashionable fabrics. The handloom sector of India employs over 43 lakh people of which 60% are women weavers. His aim is to encourage the existence of Indian textiles by developing clusters and also introducing traditional dyes which are not harmful to the environment. Another question to ask is the labour force within the textile factories; what are the working conditions within the factories, and do these people even want to work within large textile factories?

Sanvar Oberoi the next panelist is a hemp farmer that can be mistaken as a drug supplier! He endorses green fashion. Along with his team he travels all over India tapping its natural resources. Bombay Hemp Company, works with plants like cannibis, aka weed, in order to produce natural quality products.  They work closely with the government as they use a crop which can easily nurture illegal habits. As Parmesh Shahani joked;  Boheco products make you “happy and high”. I feel this was one of the coolest things around town. If a young guy has dedicated himself in promoting natural textiles, there is nothing like it, because if not the youth, then who will take the Indian textiles forward in the country?

Maithili Ahluwalia talked about how she was raised in a hybrid family which evolved as a concept for her label Bunglow 8. A Bunglow 8 customer can opt for mixtures of fabrics silhouettes, etc as per their need. I think it is a very cool idea for people wanting to dress Desi but with a splash of western influence. On a personal level I can relate to this concept. People like me who have grown up in two different countries and at times don’t know where they belong, in terms of fashion. It’s like you want to adapt to the Indian fashion but can’t let go of those crop tops and high slits.

A Small World CEO Sabine Heller talked about the symbiotic interactions between east and west.  I can understand the lure of Indians looking at foreign clothes with glimmer in their eyes. We feel like the quality of the fabric is on a much superior level coming from the west then it is in India. Whereas well known Asian designers have done quite well selling so-called ‘exotic clothes’ to people in the west.

Another mobilizing factor capable for propelling Indian textiles to the next level is the appreciation that needs to be given to the hard working weavers and factory workers of the country. So much of our attention goes to the name brands in store that we forget about the labour force behind the cloth. Indian textiles can be cool and relevant through proper appreciation and credit received by the workers.

One way of appreciating textile workers that Sanvar talked about was connecting the customer to the worker. Through Skype and other social platforms customers can now contact the weavers who are making these products.  This adds to the personal touch that is much needed in these interactions, and it also encourages weavers to strive for quality products. Personally I love the idea of positive interactions between labourers and customers in such a complex chain of production, manufacturing and merchandising. The interpersonal connections provide workers with a sense of satisfaction and pride, especially when they have people from all over the world interacting with them.

On a personal level, I agreed with the panelists. But I must say, the only way such panels can change our understanding of such issues, is if we take those 5-10 minutes of our day and talk to our friends and colleagues about such issues. Social awareness is important- the second part of that phrase is even more important. Without awareness or NOT being aware of the problems around us, we willfully ignore the problems around us. By not asking questions, we tend not to think about such complex issues. So if I got anything out of this seminar and if you, the reader got anything out of this post it should be ‘awareness.’

-XOXO Kreena

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 – Day 5

The last day of Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 kicked of withDark Angelby Jinal Sutariya and Heena Surani under the label House of Chic. This chic and edgy accessories collection consisted of pieces from statement necklaces to skull shaped clutches and you could see how this fashion show came to light as show stopper Pooja Gupta was clothed in a jeweled body vest.1Pragya and Megha, the mother-daughter designer duo, presented their collection “Samor” inspired by exotic colorful birds. This funky line showcased modern drapes and cuts in a wide array of colors with sketch, smear and streak effect on the fabrics. The trendy bags, pom poms on the shoes and long quirky earrings were a few things that stood out from this collection.
2“Charkha” by Rahul and Shikha Mangal under the label “Vrisa” was a boho inspired range of Indian and ethnic wear. A simple and clean cut collection in shades of white, beige, persian blue and brown consisting of trousers, long jackets, anarkalis, and stoles in tribal and oriental prints.3

“Aangan” by Sonam and Paras Modi for their label “SVA” was portrayed as an exotic collection inspired from the land of the Rajputs and Maharajas. I loved the detailing on the garments which consisted of tiny cloth buttons, embroidery, and prints on the edges of dupattas, hemlines, tops and sleeves of the garment. 

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“CHOKHI” by Archana Kochhar showcased a spectacular collection which was inspired by the rich state of Rajasthan. A few things that I liked from her collection was the bandanas, nose-to-ear nathnis, elephant print, mustache buttons, and the sequined belts. 

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“A Royal Procession” by Shyamal and Bhumika was a collection inspired by the Rajput/Mughal era. Their collection consisted of Indian as well as Pakistani attire in form of pants, dhotis, cholis, ghagras and sarees in shades of red, cream, pink, and gold to adhere to the wedding theme.

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Reliance Trendz presented Bisou Bisou by Michele Bohbot. In my opininion this was a very up-beat collection of ready to wear garments in shades of blue, pink and orange. She showcased a very young and modern range of western wear consisting of a lot of tribal prints and abstract patterns on dresses, peplums, jackets, pants, dresses and blouses.7

Sabyasachi Mukherjees royal collection was the perfect end to the Lakme Fashion Week. He paid a tribute to the regal era of queens with outfits in shades of  gold (obviously), red, black, cream and pink along with breathtaking details in each and every garment. A few things I liked from his collection were the striped blouses, half lace sarees, floral printed lehengas and the belted anarkalis.

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That is the end of all the 5 days of the Lakme Fashion Week coverage. Although it took me a REALLY REALLY long time to cover the fashion week due to my hectic schedule I hope you guys enjoyed it 🙂 the upcoming posts will get back to basics and the nail arts and outfit posts will come back in great succession!
-XOXO Kreena

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 – Day 4

The Indian Textile Day of Lakmé Fashion Week has always been my favorite day of the entire week as it cuts back on the chaos and drama and solely concentrates on the fabrics and detail of every outfit! The day kicked of with Shruti Sancheti‘s collection presented by Maharashtra State Handlooms. Her collection “Saaj,” a tribute to the weavers of India, consisted of lehengas, ghagra, anarkali, asymmetric kalidaars, saris, and jumpsuits. The color pallette consisted of bright colors like red, yellow and orange.

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Designer Soumitra Mondal‘s collection offered a contemporary line with links to strong traditional touches. He used dramatic colors like black, grey, indigo blue, yellow and maroon in order to give his outfits a clean cut image. The accessories and the embellished outfits were styled amazingly well.

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Gaurang Shah presented his colorful collection ‘Stridhan’ wrapped in the beautiful patola fabric from Patan, Gujrat. The Patola fabric is considered auspicious due to its usage in a woman’s marital journey. The collection was created within a unisex forum that included cothing items such as kurta, dhoti, sherwani, and turbans for men. While women’s wear consisted of anarkalis, lehengas, shararas, ghagras, saris and khadi dupattas in bright ikat print.

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Shravan Kumar‘s collection was my favorite from the entire day on the basis of the usage of different color pallets, silhouettes, fabrics and patterns (basically everything)! I love how he worked with white, grey, and pink with impeccable styling and drapping.

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Vivek Kumar‘s stunning line called “Kirtimukha” took the limelight when it came to embellishments and the color pallette. The concept of “Kirtimukha,” which means “protector deity and a threshold guardian has dual appearances,” was incorporated well in his collection.

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Manipur Handlooms in collaboration with Krishna Mehta was a fusion line impeccably crafted by the weavers of Imphal, Manipur. Fabrics like silk, wool and tweed were showcased in rich hues of crimson, orange, red, fuchsia, cobalt and purple. Long jackets, skirted dresses, flared tunics and the saris kept the silhouettes long and sophisticated.

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Rahul Mishra known as “Master of Reversible Chic” presented his collection “Sunehri,” which consisted of festive bridal wears. Fabric in shades of orange, red and yellow with motif of flowers like genda, gudhal and mogra were used to create the outfits. Long-sleeved collared blouses, shoulder pads, transparent fabrics, and belts which are not often seen in bridal wear were incorporated impeccably in his collection.

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Reliance Jewels presents Ritu Kumar‘s fantastic collection called “The Thunder Mountain and the Curling Vine” inspired by the natural beauty of the deep woods and the mountains of the Himalayan region. Her collection consisted of assymetric collars, capes, belts, ankle length leggings, kurti-dresses and other quirky elements. Gradually the show focused on bridal wear towards the end of the collection.

8-XOXO Kreena

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 – Day 3

Day 3 kicked off with Drvv By Dhruv Kapur’s collection which consisted of just black long drapes, zippers, and asymmetrical cuts. the collection didn’t boast any creative colours which seemed odd because I didn’t expect the day to start off with a monotone color pallette. But nonetheless it was a clean and crisp collection.

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Huemn By Pranav Mishra And Shyma Shetty was weird to say the least. Their collection consisted of x-ray images of a persons mouth printed all over the outfit.

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Square Loop By Kanika Sachdeva didn’t leave me disappointed as she showcased a variety of ensembles and accessories in her collection. This fuss free collection in earthy colors and the crisp bags got all the brownie points.

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Nupur Kanoi’s “Eccentricity Tour” inspired by the 70’s Boho chic embraced the  flower-power madness in a quirky collection. I’m in love with the off shoulder assymetric cape/cropped top, the colorful skirts, and the drappery. the usage of white tee’s and black colars emphasized the array of colors used in her collection.

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Payal Khandwala’s “A Fine Balance” was dedicated to the strong working woman. She worked with powerful colors like maroon, royal purple, yellow, olive and black. Several long skirts, embroidered jackets, jumpsuits, maxi dresses, cropped tops, striped pants and sheer fabrics were seen in the collection.

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Amit Aggarwal’s collection inspired by architectural structures was a very unique line. The sculpted construction due to moulding metal and drape in fine chiffon and jersey gave the collection a unique twist. He incorporated rigid structures with fragile transparency, which took the collection to another level.

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I simply adored the prints, head bands, color, and the silhouettes in Anita Dongre’s AND and Global Desi collection. This was one collection that made me say “I want that” as each model walked on the runway.

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Priya Kataaria Puri’s collection called “Fast and Curious” consisted of bold, daring cuts and drapes in vibrant colors. This collection was made for a vibrant festive holiday consisting of ready-to-wear, stylish outfits meant for the beach, parties and formal evenings.
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 “Wear Nothing But Gold” collection by Vikram Phadnis in collaboration with Pond’s Gold Radiance showcased an overdose of glitz, glamour and glitter. Karisma Kapoor, the face of Pond’s Gold Radiance, added shine to the collection as Vikram’s show stopper.
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-XOXO Kreena